At Watches and Wonders 2024 in Geneva, IWC Schaffhausen has just unveiled its new Portugieser collection, whose undisputed highlight is the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. With its first secular perpetual calendar, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer builds on its extensive expertise in engineering mechanical calendars and pushes the boundaries in fine watchmaking. To accompany the launch of this highly complex watch, IWC joined forces with one of the foremost Scientific communicator Professor Brian Cox.
 

Brian Cox is a Professor at The University of Manchester who has worked on the Large Hadron Collider at CERN, Geneva, The Fermi National Accelerator Laboratory in Chicago and the DESY Laboratory in Hamburg. He is best known to the public as the presenter of a number of award-winning science programmes for the BBC, boosting the popularity of subjects such as astronomy and physics. He has also completed a string of Guinness World Record breaking, sell-out live world tours.

“To a physicist with a deep interest in space and time, IWC’s watchmaking is a source of inspiration. Looking at the second hand of a watch invites profound questions about the nature of time and space and the underlying structure and beauty of our Universe. What exactly is it that this precision machine is so elegantly measuring? But science can’t answer the deepest of questions alone. It is beyond exciting for me to collaborate with IWC and one of my musical heroes, Hans Zimmer. Art and music are as essential to the progress of our civilisation as science and engineering. This project is an opportunity to bring these disciplines together to create something unique and wonderful“, said Brian Cox.

WHEN ART AND SCIENCE UNITE: HANS ZIMMER COLLABORATES WITH BRIAN COX 

The Portugieser Eternal Calendar is not just a feat of engineering. With its intricate craftsmanship and high level of detail, it also represents a true work of art. For this reason, IWC reverted to another friend of the brand – Academy Award^®-winning music composer Hans Zimmer. He has not only scored some of the most important milestones in the history of cinema but is also known for his “engineered” approach to composing music. Among other things, this is underscored by his role as a pioneer in the domains of using synthesizsers and sampling to create and capture unique sounds. IWC called on Hans Zimmer to compose music inspired by the signature dial colours in the new Portugieser collection. While working on the compositions, Hans Zimmer was brought together with Brian Cox to exchange concepts and ideas. The unlikely pair exchanged thoughts on the Portugieser Eternal Calendar and discussed some key concepts inherent to art and science. The unique perspectives shared by Brian Cox as a scientist inspired Hans Zimmer while creating his music. The result of this collaboration is a unique masterpiece of music. While representing Silver Moon, Horizon Blue, Dune and Obsidian, it also reflects the timeless nature of the Portugieser and this year’s theme, “A Tribute to Eternity.” 
 

“As an artist, I always seek inspiration to take me to unexpected places and give my work new directions. Talking to Brian Cox, a leading physicist and such a brilliant mind, has deeply inspired me. This project has reinforced my intention to create a unique community of artists, scientists, and other thought leaders with the aim of collaborating on some of the most pressing challenges we face globally as a species,” said Hans Zimmer. 
 

IWC Schaffhausen and Hans Zimmer already collaborated in April 2022 for the launch of IWC’s TOP GUN collection. They also joined forces to organise two spectacular concerts in Dubai in January 2023. With this new collaboration, they continue their journey together.

ABOUT BRIAN COX 

Brian is Professor of Particle Physics at the University of Manchester, The Royal Society Professor for Public Engagement in Science and a Fellow of the Royal Society. Brian is widely recognised as the foremost communicator for all things scientific, having presented a number of highly acclaimed science programmes for the BBC watched by billions internationally including ‘Adventures in Space and Time’ (2021), ‘Universe’ (2021), ‘The Planets’ (2018), ‘Forces of Nature’ (2016), ‘Human Universe’ (2014), ‘Wonders of Life’ (2012), ‘Wonders of the Universe’ (2011) and ‘Wonders of the Solar System’ (2010). He also co-hosted popular astronomy and cosmology series ‘Stargazing Live’ with Dara O’Briain (and for ABC in Australia, with Julia Zemiro) and award-winning BBC Radio 4 series ‘Infinite Monkey Cage’, which has gone on to become one of the UK’s most popular podcasts. As an author, Brian has also sold over a million books worldwide including ‘Black Holes’, ‘Universal: A Guide to the Cosmos’, ‘Quantum Universe’ and ‘Why Does E=mc2?’ with co-author Professor Jeffrey Forshaw. Brian has undertaken several sell-out live world tours, setting several Guinness World Records, including for the biggest selling science tour – a record he himself broke with his most recent worldwide tour, ‘Horizons’, which took in venues in the UK, USA, Australia, New Zealand, Singapore, Hong Kong and across Europe and was performed to hundreds of thousands of people across the world.

ABOUT HANS ZIMMER 

Hans Zimmer has scored more than 200 projects across every medium and has been honoured with two Academy Awards^®, three Golden Globes^®, three Grammys^®, an American Music Award, and a Tony^® Award. Work highlights include the scores for Dune, No Time to Die, Gladiator, The Thin Red Line, As Good as It Gets, Rain Man, The Dark Knight trilogy, Inception, Thelma and Louise, The Last Samurai, 12 Years A Slave, Blade Runner 2049 (co-scored with Benjamin Wallfisch) and Dunkirk, as well as recent film scores including Wonder Woman 1984, Ron Howard’s Hillbilly Elegy and The SpongeBob Movie: Sponge on the Run. In 2019, Zimmer also scored the live-action remake of The Lion King, for which he received a Grammy^® nomination for Best Score Soundtrack for Visual Media.

On the opening day of Watches and Wonders in Geneva, supermodel and IWC Brand Ambassador Gisele Bündchen visited IWC Schaffhausen at its booth. Upon her arrival, she was greeted by Chris Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen, and Franziska Gsell, CMO of IWC Schaffhausen. 
 

This year at Watches and Wonders, IWC launches its new Portugieser collection. With the introduction of new design codes and complications, IWC once again showcases its expertise in fine watchmaking. 
 

During her visit, Gisele, who will be part of the Portugieser campaign, toured the booth which this year is designed with the theme of “A Tribute to Eternity”. Reminiscent of the endless cycle of day and night, the booth showcases the new colours, Silver Moon, Horizon Blue, Dune and Obsidian. Each of which is uniquely reminiscent of the journey from dusk till dawn.
 

“It is a pleasure to be here with IWC at Watches and Wonders and see the beautiful new Portugieser collection,” states Gisele. Commenting on what “A Tribute to Eternity” means to her, she continued “Time is a special gift and using it wisely impacts what we leave behind for future generations. I chose to use my time to focus on my family, love, learning, health, and friendships.”

On the special occasion, Gisele wore the new Portugieser Chronograph (ref. IW371626) in Horizon Blue. The blue dial is intricately crafted and finished with 15 transparent layers, giving it a captivating visual depth. It is fitted with a gradient light blue calfstrap from Santoni and powered by the IWC-manufactured 69355 calibre. Horizon Blue draws its inspiration from the serene yet vibrant blue hues of the early afternoon sky. When paired with the white-gold case, it gives the watch an underlying sense of lightness. This combination of colour and material gives the watch an elegant and refined look, making it a perfect choice for everyday use. Gisele explained what particularly draws her to the Horizon blue colour, “One thing that is important to me about selecting a watch is that it matches my personal style and is versatile. The Horizon Blue sparks a sense of the peace and calm when I wear it. As we all are busy with work and families, we need to remember time is precious and we must take a moment for ourselves.”
 

In 2022, IWC welcomed the Brazilian supermodel and philanthropist Gisele as a brand ambassador. The relationship was formed in recognition of the remarkable synergy of shared values and ambitions between the two. Throughout her career, she has become one of the most successful and recognisable supermodels in the world. Not only because she has been photographed by some of the most legendary photographers and walked the runways of the biggest fashion houses but also because of her work within sustainability. Gisele has been a Goodwill Ambassador for the United Nations Environmental Program since 2009. She has also been honoured by renowned academic institutions such as Harvard University for her longstanding commitment to key environmental issues.

“A Tribute to Eternity” is the theme for IWC Schaffhausen’s 2024 Portugieser collection. It is a nod to IWC’s latest feat of engineering: the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. At the same time, it is a reference to the timeless character of the Portugieser. Created in the late 1930s, the first Portugieser was inspired by a nautical deck watch used for navigation on ships. The DNA of a highly precise and easily legible instrument has resulted in a timeless design idiom that continues to be incredibly fresh and modern today. For the new collection, IWC has reworked selected models and perfected them to the smallest detail. Four new colours called Horizon Blue, Dune, Obsidian and Silver Moon add a fresh touch and shine a surprising new light on the Portugieser’s emblematic design.

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN’S FIRST SECULAR PERPETUAL CALENDAR

Since Kurt Klaus created his ingenious perpetual calendar in the 1980s, IWC Schaffhausen has acquired unique expertise in the field of mechanical calendars. With the Portugieser Eternal Calendar (Ref. IW505701), the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer now pushes the boundaries of engineering once again. In addition to recognising the different month lengths and adding a leap day every four years at the end of February, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar also takes into account the Gregorian calendar’s leap year exceptions by skipping three leap years over 400 years. For this watch, IWC’s engineers have taken on the challenge of developing a moon phase display with unprecedented precision. Theoretically, the Double Moon^TM indication will only need to be adjusted by one day after 45 million years.

NEW SIGNATURE COLOURS AND INTRICATELY CRAFTED DIALS

From the dawn of civilisation, every culture has looked up and observed the movements of the celestial bodies. The movements of the sun, the moon and the stars gave us an intuitive way of understanding and measuring time, leading to the development of our time scale and our calendars. The eternal cycle of day and night has inspired IWC to create four unique new colours: Horizon Blue, Dune, Obsidian and Silver Moon. Horizon Blue is a light blue shade with an exceptional lightness and clarity. It is inspired by the early afternoon sky when the sun bathes the world in a bright, clear light. The unique atmosphere of early evening with the golden glow of the setting sun inspired the new dial colour Dune. The design code Obsidian, with black dials and gold-plated hands and gold appliques, stands for the night sky and the golden city lights. Silver Moon, finally, reflects the whitish shimmer of sunlight reflected from the moon’s surface. For showcasing these colours to maximum effect, IWC has also created new dials with a captivating visual depth. They are crafted in a complex process comprising 60 individual steps, including the application of 15 layers of transparent lacquer, which is f ine-ground and then polished to a high gloss finish. 

A MODERNIST EXHIBITION PAVILLION BATHED IN COLOURS

To reflect the timelessness that distinguished the Portugieser, the IWC booth at Watches and Wonders is inspired by the modernist era in architecture. Designed as an open and transparent exhibition pavilion, it takes up elements which can also be found in IWC’s Manufakturzentrum in Schaffhausen. With various water elements, the booth also recalls the unique location on the banks of the river Rhine where IWC was established more than 150 years ago. During different times of the day, the booth will be immersed in the new signature colours Horizon Blue, Dune, Obsidian and Silver Moon – creating distinctive atmospheres and moods for visitors to experience. The new Portugieser collection is presented on a large round display. As a reference to IWC’s calendar watches and moon phase indications, there is a huge, shimmering silver moon hanging above it. From the colours to the water to the moon, each element of the booth is a reference to eternity. 
 

At the booth, IWC also presents the Perpetual Studio for the first time. The Perpetual Studio is where IWC’s most experienced and skilled master watchmakers work on assembling and fine-tuning the most complex mechanisms, such as tourbillons and calendars. Visitors can learn more about the evolution from the Perpetual Calendar to the Eternal Calendar. What is more, they can observe a master watchmaker at work wearing the Cyberloupe^®, the world’s first digitalised watchmaker magnifying glass. During the remainder of 2024, the Perpetual Studio will be shown as a traveling exhibition in various locations around the globe.

THE 2024 PORTUGIESER COLLECTION AT A GLANCE 

The Portugieser Eternal Calendar (Ref. IW505701) is the first secular perpetual calendar developed by IWC Schaffhausen. It automatically recognises the different lengths of the months and adds a leap day every four years at the end of February. While a perpetual calendar is programmed for a four year cycle, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar goes one step further: thanks to a new 400-year gear, it also considers the Gregorian calendar’s leap year exceptions by skipping three leap years over 400 years. In addition, its moon phase is so accurate that it will – theoretically – only deviate by one day after 45 million years. 
 

The Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night (Ref. IW545901) features a flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock and a day and night indication with a small globe, which rotates around its axis once every 24 hours. The idea for this indication came from a former IWC apprentice watchmaker. Featuring an 18-carat Armor Gold® case and Obsidian dial, the watch is powered by the IWCmanufactured 81925 calibre with manual winding. 
 

The new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW5037) features a completely re-engineered case construction with a slimmer casing ring. Box-shaped glasses on the front and back showcase the intricately crafted dials and the IWC-manufactured 52616 calibre, which features a Pellaton winding system with ceramic components and offers a power reserve of seven days. Four versions are available in 18-carat white gold or 18-carat Armor Gold® with either Horizon Blue, Dune, Obsidian or Silver Moon dials. 
 

The new Portugieser Automatic 42 (Ref. IW5017) impresses with a new case construction with a slimmer casing ring and double box-glass sapphire crystals. At work inside is the IWC-manufactured 520111 calibre with Pellaton winding, ceramic components and a 7-day power reserve. Available in six new versions in 18-carat white gold, 18-carat 5N gold or stainless steel, the Portugieser Automatic 42 is a classic instrument dress watch that retains the DNA of the original Portugieser Automatic from 2000.
 

The Portugieser Automatic 40 (Ref. IW3584) has also been reworked with a slimmer case and double box-glass sapphire crystals. With its clean and open dial, it represents the essence of the timeless Portugieser design and stands in direct lineage to the original Reference 325 from 1939. Powered by the IWC-manufactured 82200 calibre with Pellaton winding, ceramic components and 60 hours of power, it is presented in two new versions in 18-carat white gold or 18-carat 5N gold with either a Horizon Blue or Obsidian dial. 
 

Having formed a major pillar of the Portugieser collection since 1998, the Portugieser Chronograph (Ref. 3716) launches in three new versions in 18-carat White Gold, 18-carat 5N gold or stainless steel with either a Horizon Blue, an Obsidian or a Dune dial. Powered by the IWC-manufactured 69355 calibre, the chronograph is distinguished by its easy-to-read dial with the vertically arranged totalizers. The quarter-second scale enables highly accurate stop time measurements and reflects the Portugieser’s DNA as a measuring instrument.

Translating the irregular calendar into a mechanical program for a wristwatch remains one of the most challenging engineering feats in fine watchmaking. The Gregorian calendar, which is used across most continents and cultures today, divides the year into twelve months with 28, 30 or 31 days. Years that are divisible by four count as leap years, meaning that a 29th day must be added at the end of February. However, an additional correction is needed to keep the calendar in sync with the actual solar year: only those centurial years that can be divided by 400 are leap years, all others are common years. This means that 2000 and 2400 are leap years, while 2100, 2200 and 2300, for example, are common years. A traditional perpetual calendar, however, is only programmed for a four-year cycle, in which three common years are always followed by a leap year. By design, it will interpret the year 2100 as a leap year and need a correction. The same will happen again in 2200 and 2300. As a result, a perpetual calendar will need three corrections over a period of 400  years. A secular perpetual calendar like the Portugieser Eternal Calendar (Ref. IW505701), on the other hand, is mechanically programmed to take these complex nuances into account. It will calculate the leap year correctly until at least the year 3999, as it has not yet been officially decided whether the year 4000 will be a leap year or not.

THE 400-YEARS GEAR SKIPS THREE LEAP YEARS IN FOUR CENTURIES 

The Portugieser Eternal Calendar is based on the same modular and synchronised design as the existing perpetual calendar. All its displays can be advanced using the crown. However, while the perpetual calendar is programmed for a four-year cycle, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar features an additional mechanism. Every four years at the end of February, a new module informs the calendar about whether the leap year takes place or not. This so-called 400-years gear completes only one revolution every four centuries. It contains three indentations, which cause the calendar to skip three leap years over that period. This module is designed with impressive efficiency and technical elegance and consists of only eight parts, underscoring IWC Schaffhausen’s engineering approach to fine watchmaking.

MOON PHASE WITH A CALCULATED ACCURACY OF 45 MILLION YEARS

Since the introduction of the perpetual calendar almost four decades ago, IWC has also taken great strides to continuously improve the accuracy of its moon phase displays. While the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW3750) from 1985 featured a moon phase precision of 122 years, the first Portugieser Perpetual Calendar (Ref. IW5021) from 2003 impressed with a moon phase accuracy of 577.5 years. IWC’s engineers have now taken on the challenge to develop a new moon phase display with unprecedented precision. 
 

The difficulty in displaying the moon phase on the dial of a watch lies in the fact that the moon does not follow a daily rhythm in its orbit around the Earth. A cycle from new moon to new moon – one lunation – does not last 30 days, but rather 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 2.88 seconds. The duration of one calendar month must therefore be reduced as close as possible to one lunar cycle. This is achieved by placing a reduction gear between the base movement and the moon phase disc. The key to high precision lies in the quantity of wheels used, their proportions and the number of teeth they have. IWC’s engineers have now used a special computer program to simulate more than 22 trillion different combinations. For the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, they came up with a new reduction gear train using three intermediate wheels. Mathematically, the display will only deviate from the moon’s orbit by one day after 45 million years. Another challenge consisted in integrating this new gear train into the confined space of the eternal calendar module. 
 

The moon phase is displayed on the dial using the characteristic Double Moon™ indication, which shows the moon as seen from the Northern and Southern hemispheres. The display consists of two super-imposed discs. A celestial disc with two small circular openings rotates above an immobile lower disc with two dots. This negative representation gives the impression that two small moons are waxing or waning. Here, the lower disc is made of titanium and decorated with a Guilloché pattern. The upper disc is made of glass.

INTRICATELY CRAFTED GLASS DIAL AND DOUBLE BOX-GLASS

The Portugieser Eternal Calendar features an intricately finished platinum case with polished and brushed surfaces. Another highlight is the glass dial, which is manufactured in a complex process. In the first step, the underside of the dial is frosted and lacquered in white. The subdials are machined and polished separately and subsequently fixed onto the dial. In the next step, the printing is applied, and the appliques are mounted by hand. The depth of the glass lends the print and appliques a floaty lightness. The numerals and the characteristic Portugieser minute scale are printed on a white lacquered flange sitting between the glass dial and the front glass. The box-glass sapphire crystals are machined and polished in an elaborate process. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar is fitted with a black alligator leather strap from the Italian leather artisan Santoni with a platinum folding clasp.

IWC-MANUFACTURED 52640 CALIBRE WITH SEVEN DAY POWER RESERVE 

At work inside the platinum case is the newly developed IWC-manufactured 52640 calibre. The high-end calibre features a highly efficient Pellaton winding system. Using movements of the rotor in both directions, it reliably builds up a power reserve of seven days (168 hours) in the two barrels. Parts of the winding system that are subject to extremely high stresses are manufactured using virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic. The movement has been elaborately finished with circular graining and Geneva stripes and can be admired through the box-shaped sapphire glass case back.

The Portugieser stands out not only because of its pure and timeless design. The collection is also a testament to IWC Schaffhausen’s comprehensive expertise in fine watchmaking. Over the years, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer has presented many Portugieser watches with high complications, ranging from different versions of its perpetual calendar and tourbillons to the astronomical displays of the Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia – to this day the most complicated watch ever made by IWC Schaffhausen. With its unique engineering approach to fine watchmaking, IWC develops complications that are ingenious, highly robust and reliable, and technically elegant in their design.
 

Adding to its legacy of high complications, IWC presents the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night (Ref. IW545901) with a polished and brushed 18-carat Armor Gold^® case, gold-plated hands, and gold appliques. Thanks to its improved microstructure, Armor Gold^® is significantly harder and more wearresistant than conventional 5N gold. The Obsidian black and highly polished dial radiates a tremendous depth and creates a beautiful contrast. The watch is fitted with a finely crafted curved black alligator leather strap from Santoni, a renowned Italian manufacturer of luxury shoes and leather accessories. The flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock is one of the most sophisticated complications in watchmaking. Assembling and finetuning this delicate mechanism is a task reserved for the most experienced master watchmakers at IWC Schaffhausen. The tourbillon places the balance wheel and pallet lever inside a small cage that rotates around its axis once every minute. This constant rotation reduces the influence of gravity on the oscillating system of the watch, thereby increasing its accuracy. As the tourbillon cage is stopped and accelerated several times per second, its total weight must be as low as possible. Although the mechanism consists of 56 individual parts, it only weighs 0.675 grams in total. The pallet lever and escape wheel are made of silicon and treated with a special diamond coating. This Diamond Shell^® technology reduces friction and improves the flow of energy in the movement, contributing to the high power reserve of 84 hours. Thanks to the integrated tourbillon stop, the mechanism can be brought to a complete stop and the watch set with down-to-the-second accuracy.

A UNIQUE WAY TO SHOW THE ENDLESS CYCLE OF DAY AND NIGHT 

Another highlight can be found at 9 o’clock: the 24-hour indication in the shape of a small planet. The globe has a dark and a bright side and rotates around its axis once every 24 hours, offering a captivating visualisation of whether it is currently day or night. The idea for this special day and night concept came from former watchmaker trainee Loris Spitzer and is a testament to the success of IWC’s trainee program and the culture of curiosity and innovation that the company fosters. The day and night indication is integrated into the newly developed IWCmanufactured 81925 calibre. As the movement is handwound and has no oscillating mass, the small globe is visible from the front and back. The gold-plated base plate is partly skeletonised to offer an unimpeded view of the barrel and other components. The movement is elaborately finished with circular Geneva stripes and can be admired through the sapphire glass case back.

Over the last two decades, the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar has established itself as a key pillar of the collection. Originally developed by IWC Schaffhausen’s former Head Watchmaker Kurt Klaus in the 1980s, the perpetual calendar complication has been continuously improved and perfected over the years. The first Portugieser with a perpetual calendar was launched in 2003. The moon phase display was enhanced with a larger reduction gear by taking advantage of the more generous case dimensions, increasing its accuracy from 122 to 577.5 years. Another innovation was the patented Double Moon™ display, which shows the moon phase as seen from the Northern and Southern hemispheres. IWC Schaffhausen has now completely reworked and refined this model and presents four new versions. 
 

The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503703) features an 18-carat white gold case, a Horizon Blue dial, and rhodium-plated hands and appliques. It is fitted with a gradient light-blue calfskin strap from Santoni. The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503704) has an 18-carat white gold case, a Dune coloured dial, and gold-plated hands, and gold appliques. It is combined with a black alligator leather strap from Santoni. The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503702) boasts a case made of 18-carat Armor Gold^®, an Obsidian black dial, gold-plated hands, and gold appliques. Thanks to an improved microstructure, Armor Gold^® is considerably harder and more wearresistant than conventional 5N gold. This model is fitted with a black alligator leather strap from Santoni. The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503701) impresses with an 18-carat Armor Gold^® case, a Silver Moon dial, gold-plated hands, and gold appliques. This fourth timepiece is fitted with a brown alligator leather strap from Santoni.

COMPLETELY REWORKED CASE CONSTRUCTION WITH DOUBLE-BOX SAPPHIRE CRYSTALS AND NEW DIAL FINISH 

The most notable design change is the completely redesigned and refined case construction. The slimmer case ring features a more slender side profile. In combination with the box-glass sapphire crystals on the front and the back, this new construction makes the watches particularly light and elegant. The boxglass sapphire crystal, milled and polished in a highly complex process, allows for an even better view of the iconic Portugieser design cues, such as the characteristic minute scale. The dial graphics have also been carefully reworked and refined. A particular highlight is the elaborately crafted dials. The key to their extraordinary visual depths is the application of 15 layers of transparent lacquer, which is fine-ground and then polished to a high gloss finish. The subdials displaying the calendar information are milled into both the brass base and the lacquer layer. Finally, the appliques are individually mounted on the dials by hand. Comprising up to 60 individual steps, the production process for the dials is incredibly complex and challenging to master. 
 

All four watches feature IWC’s signature Double Moon™ display. Inspired by nautical instruments, it shows the moon as it can be seen from the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Thanks to a precisely calculated reduction gear, the indication will only deviate from the moon’s actual orbit by one day after 577.5 years. 
 

The watches are powered by the IWC-manufactured 52616 calibre movement, which is assembled from 385 individual parts. The escapement has been improved to offer better protection against magnetic fields. The automatic Pellaton winding system features components made of virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic, while the oscillating mass is made of solid gold. Converting the movements on the wearer’s arm into energy for the mainspring, it reliably builds up a power reserve of 7 days in two barrels.

THE PERPETUAL CALENDAR WAS A MILESTONE FOR IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN 

The introduction of the perpetual calendar in 1985 marked the beginning of IWC Schaffhausen’s comprehensive expertise in mechanical calendar complications. Kurt Klaus created a complication that is remarkable in many respects. All its displays are perfectly synchronised with each other and can be easily advanced via the crown. The calendar comprises only 81 parts, all housed in a module that is 1.5 millimetres high. With its ingeniously simple design, the complication perfectly embodies IWC Schaffhausen’s engineering approach to fine watchmaking, characterised by functionality, efficiency, and ease of use. The calendar is mechanically programmed for a cycle of four years. In addition to recognising the different lengths of the months, it automatically inserts a leap day every four years at the end of February. The mechanical program only requires a minor adjustment in centuries divisible by 100 when the leap year is skipped, for example, in 2100 or 2200.

The origins of the Portugieser date back to the late 1930s, when IWC Schaffhausen used a high-precision pocket watch movement to create a distinctively large wristwatch with chronometer precision. Although its simple case shape and purist, easy-to-read dial were created more than 80 years ago, it can hardly be linked to that specific period. The Portugieser remains timeless and has retained its freshness to this day. Clean and open dials with applied Arabic numerals, Feuille-type hands and the characteristic minutes scale reminiscent of railway tracks ensure perfect legibility. 
 

IWC Schaffhausen has now refined its timelessly elegant Portugieser watches on every level and presents a new collection of the Portugieser Automatic 42 and the Portugieser Automatic 40. All watches feature a carefully reworked case construction with a slender side profile, making them visually light and more elegant. The double box-glass sapphire crystals offer an even better view of the new dials and the IWC-manufactured movements inside. 
 

The dials are the result of an elaborate and highly complex process. The brass bases are either treated with a sunburst finish or given a finely blasted surface before the colour is applied. The key to their unusually pronounced optical depth is the application of 15 layers of lacquer, which is fine-ground and then polished to a high gloss finish. The subdials are milled into both the brass base and the lacquer layer. The three-dimensional effect is further emphasised by the printing, which is carried out in a special procedure and adds to the sensation of depth. To finish, the appliques are individually hand mounted. Finally, the dial graphics have also been carefully reworked for a perfect balance of lightness, elegance and legibility. 
 

The Portugieser Automatic is distinguished by its balanced dial design with the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and the small seconds at 9 o’clock. With the new Portugieser Automatic 42 (Ref. IW5017), IWC Schaffhausen now launches a timeless and modern instrument dress watch, which fully retains the DNA of the original Portugieser Automatic (Ref. IW50001) from the year 2000.
 

• 18-carat white gold case, Horizon Blue dial, rhodiumplated hands and appliques, gradient blue calfskin strap from Santoni with 18-carat white gold folding clasp (Ref. IW501708)
• 18-carat 5N gold case, Obsidian black dial, goldplated hands and gold appliques, black alligator leather strap from Santoni with 18-carat 5N gold folding clasp (Ref. IW501707)
• Stainless steel case, Dune dial, gold-plated hands and gold appliques, black alligator leather strap with stainless steel folding clasp (Ref. IW501705)
• Stainless steel case, Silver Moon dial, gold-plated hands and appliques, black alligator leather strap with stainless steel folding clasp (Ref. IW501701)
• Stainless steel case, Silver Moon dial, blue hands and appliques, gradient blue alligator leather strap with stainless steel folding clasp (Ref. IW501702)
• Stainless steel case, blue dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, stainless steel bracelet (Ref. IW501704) 
   

The new models are powered by the IWC-manufactured 52011 calibre. The escapement has been improved to offer better protection against magnetic fields. The Pellaton winding system is reinforced with virtually wearfree zirconium oxide ceramic components and builds up a power reserve of seven days (168 hours) in two barrels. 
 

First introduced to the collection in 2020, the Portugieser Automatic 40 (Ref. IW3584) presents the essence of the Portugieser design with a more compact case size of 40 millimetres. Standing in direct lineage to the first Portugieser, Reference 325 from 1939, it features a clean and open dial with the small seconds at 6 o’clock and no date window.
 

• 18-carat white gold case, Horizon Blue dial, rhodiumplated hands and appliques, gradient light-blue calfskin strap from Santoni with 18-carat white gold pin buckle (Ref. IW358402)
• 18-carat 5N gold case, Obsidian black dial, gold-plated hands and gold appliques, black alligator leather strap from Santoni with 18-carat 5N gold pin buckle (Ref. IW358401) 
   

Both models are powered by the IWC-manufactured 82200 calibre. Featuring parts made of zirconium oxide ceramic, the automatic Pellaton winding system builds up a power reserve of 60 hours in the mainspring.

With the Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante from 1995, the chronograph arrived in the Portugieser family. Since then, this functional complication has brought a touch of sporty elegance to the collection. The IWC-typical vertical arrangement of the sub-dials places the stopped minutes directly at 12 o’clock, making them easy to read, while the small seconds are positioned at 6 o’clock. Another distinguishing design feature is the inner flange printed with a quarter-second scale, enabling high-precision stop-time readings. IWC Schaffhausen now launches three new versions of the popular chronograph in the new colour codes Horizon Blue, Obsidian, and Dune.
 

A particular highlight is the intricately crafted dials. The brass bases are first given a sunburst finish before the respective colour is applied. In the next step, 15 layers of transparent lacquer are applied, fine-ground and then polished to a high gloss. The totalisers are milled into both the brass base and the lacquer layer. The printing, carried out through a special process, further adds to the three-dimensional effect. Finally, the appliques are mounted individually by hand. The complete manufacturing process for these dials comprises more than 60 steps and is highly challenging to master.
 

The Portugieser Chronograph (Ref. IW371626) features a Horizon Blue dial. Horizon is a light blue shade, reminiscent of the early afternoon sky during the sun-soaked height of the day. This colour is complemented by a polished and brushed 18-carat white gold case, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, and a gradient light-blue calfskin strap from Santoni. 
 

The Portugieser Chronograph (Ref. IW371625) impresses with its Obsidian black dial, an 18-carat 5N gold case, gold-plated hands, and gold appliques. Thanks to the lacquer finish, the dial emanates an incredible depth. The combination of black and gold captures the black of the night and the golden warmth of the city lights at night. The chronograph is fitted with a black alligator leather strap from Santoni. 
 

The Portugieser Chronograph (Ref. IW371624) with a Dune dial is paired with a stainless steel case, gold-plated hands and gold appliques, and a black alligator leather strap. This combination reflects the mood in the late afternoon with the golden low sun. Thanks to the elaborate lacquer finish, the gold appliques appear to be floating above the dial.
 

ROBUST AND RELIABLE CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT 

The Portugieser Chronograph is powered by the IWCmanufactured 69355 calibre, a mechanical chronograph movement engineered with a focus on robustness, reliability, and longevity. The column-wheel control of the chronograph function ensures that individual phases in the switching sequence are clearly defined. There is also a distinct tactile resistance when the buttons are pushed. Seamless integration with the basic movement and careful coordination of all components helps to ensure that the correct rates are maintained even when the chronograph is subject to intense use. Typical for IWC, the vertical arrangement of the subdials displays the stopped minutes directly at the 12 o’clock position and places the small seconds at 6 o’clock. This layout enhances readability and has become a distinguishing design feature of the Portugieser Chronograph.